The innocence of the average Indonesian is a large part of their charm, along with their generally good nature and relaxed, tolerant attitude toward foreigners. I came here after serving time in Japan and Thailand, and no matter how many decades you live there you are still treated like a frightening and unwelcome alien from a distant planet by the locals – even those who know you. It can be a pain in the ass, particularly when the fearful act is displayed by somebody you see on a daily basis.

Indonesians, on the other hand, are such a colourful collection – racially, culturally and historically – thatthey are generally relaxed and accepting around Caucasian visitors from just about anywhere. And when our attitudes or behaviour becomes too mysterious or inexplicable, they smile and say bule gila, which explains everything.